![]() Its optical design includes rear element (RF) focusing, which is a special case of internal (IF) focusing, so the length of the lens won't change while it is focused. However, all numerals and lettering on its barrel are just printed, not engraved, which is a pity considering the elevated price this lens commands. It comes in a professional-looking crinkle finish and the construction is metal rather than plastics - thank you, Nikon. In fact, the 105 DC gives a true stellar optical performance and is one of the finest Nikkors ever made. (FX: D3X) The 105/2 is the shortest of the two Nikkors offering a defocus control (DC) feature, and possibly a better performer than the longer 135/2 DC. Testing with the D200 (modified) confirms this information. ![]() IR: No issues were detected when using this lens for IR work on my Fuji S3Pro UVIR camera. There is virtually no chromatic aberration (CA) to be seen at the normal aperture settings, but a tiny amount of CA begins to creep in when the lens is stopped down beyond f/11. The excellent image quality holds up surprisingly well to near f/16, but from here you do get some softening mediated by diffraction effects. Anyway, image detail is very good at f/1.8 despite the lowered contrast, and by stopping down to f/2.8 you do get very high contrast, and superb image sharpness. On the D2X, the flare at f/1.8 is even more prominent and it looks more like residual spherical aberration to me. Set it to f/5.6 if you are keen on getting the maximum quality from this lens. It is moderately resistant to flare and ghosts under normal shooting conditions. Wide open, image contrast is lowered by internal flare, so the f/1.8 setting shouldn't be used indiscriminately. It produces very sharp and contrasty images within its optimal range from f/4 to f/11. (Fuji S3 UVIR, D200 modified)Ě nicely balancing lens that is sturdily built and fairly heavy. For general shooting it auto focuses just fine. For macro shooting I always focus manually. Focusing is fairly quick (I haven't tested it, but haven't noticed slow focusing either). Your camera must have a focusing motor built into the body. One issue to be aware of is that it does not have a built in focusing motor (at least in Nikon mount). It works well as a 100mm prime for portraiture, etc. It does not have image stabilization, but personally I use a tripod for macro shots. It is a very well built lens and the focusing clutch is really easy and quick to use. As spiritualspatula noted, the front element does extend as you change focus, but that is really a non-issue since you can't focus on anything close enough to hit the front of the lens. I have owned the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 for a couple of years now and have been very pleased with it. Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED I'm not terribly familiar with the Tokina model, myself. And here is their review of the 105 //The 105 is a well established lens that many love, not only for macro, but also for general portraiture, but there are other options, as well. Photozone generally does pretty good reviews, here is one for the Tokina Personally, I would shy away from this, but it might be a nonissue for you. The Tokina does not have stabilization, so if you want to try more handheld macro, it will be more difficult to use.Īlso, the Tokina's front element extends (a LOT) during focusing. It also means that to switch from manual to autofocus during shooting you have to use their clutch mechanism, which I've never personally used. The Tokina lacks AFS, so it will focus a bit noisily and perhaps slower (I say perhaps because I've seen AF lenses that focus at least as fast as AF-S, so just because it's AF doesn't mean it isn't quick). If comparing to the new one, some things to note. This is important, since there is an older version of the 105, the 105 AF. ![]() Which version of the Nikon are you comparing the Tokina to? The AF-S VRII?
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